Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History

基本信息

Edited by：Richard Thompson Ford

Publisher：Simon & Schuste

Published：9 Feb 2021

Language：English

Format Hardback：464 pages

ISBN-10 : 1501180061

ISBN-13 : 978-1501180064

Weight：635 g

Dimensions：153 x 31 x 229（mm）

頁面參數僅供參考，具體以實物為準

書籍簡介

着裝規範與服裝本身一樣古老。幾個世紀以來，服裝一直是一種可穿戴的身份象徵；時尚是爭取社會變革的武器；而着裝規範則是維持政治控制的一種方式。在以社會等級制度為結構、以奇觀為定義的中世紀社會中，那些打扮得像王子的商人和戴着鑲寶石王冠的屠夫妻子是公敵。在都鐸時期的英國，絲綢、天鵝絨和皮草是貴族的專屬，被稱為 "後備箱軟管 "的氣球褲會被認為是對良好秩序的威脅。文藝復興時代的佛羅倫薩元老科西莫-德-美第奇抓住了時尚和着裝規範的力量，他説："一個人可以用兩碼紅布造就一個紳士。" 着裝規範隨着當時的社會和政治理想而演變，但它們總是反映了權力和地位的鬥爭。在1700年代，南卡羅來納州的 "黑人法案 "規定，黑人穿着 "高於他們的條件 "是非法的。20世紀20年代，自由奔放的flappers所穿的波波頭和合身裙在全美國的工作場所被禁止，而在20世紀40年代，黑人和拉丁裔男子所喜歡的寬鬆的Zoot套裝在沿海城市引起了騷亂。
即使在今天這個更加非正式的世界裏，着裝規範仍然決定着我們穿什麼，什麼時候穿--以及我們的服裝意味着什麼。人們會因為留辮子、留長指甲、戴大耳環、留鬍鬚和紋身，或者拒絕穿西裝打領帶或化粧和穿高跟鞋而丟掉工作。在一些城市，穿下垂的褲子是一種犯罪。而即使沒有成文的規定，隱性的着裝規範仍然影響着機會和社會流動。硅谷的CEO們穿着T恤和人字拖，為整個行業定下了基調：在科技界，穿着時尚裙子或高跟鞋的女性會面臨嘲笑，一些風險投資家拒絕投資任何由穿着西裝的人經營的公司。
在《着裝守則》中，法學教授、文化評論家理查德-湯普森-福特介紹了從中世紀至今的時尚法則的深刻而有趣的歷史，他沿着歷史的紅地毯走了一圈，揭開並審視了服裝的典章、道德和習俗--這些我們常常認為理所當然的規則。讀完《着裝法則》，你再也不會認為時尚是膚淺的了--穿衣打扮也將從此改變。
Dress codes are as old as clothing itself. For centuries, clothing has been a wearable status symbol; fashion, a weapon in struggles for social change; and dress codes, a way to maintain political control. Merchants who dressed like princes and butchers’ wives wearing gem-encrusted crowns were public enemies in medieval societies structured by social hierarchy and defined by spectacle. In Tudor England, silk, velvet, and fur were reserved for the nobility and ballooning pants called “trunk hose” could be considered a menace to good order. The Renaissance era Florentine patriarch Cosimo de Medici captured the power of fashion and dress codes when he remarked, “One can make a gentleman from two yards of red cloth.” Dress codes evolved along with the social and political ideals of the day, but they always reflected struggles for power and status. In the 1700s, South Carolina’s “Negro Act” made it illegal for Black people to dress “above their condition.” In the 1920s, the bobbed hair and form-fitting dresses worn by free-spirited flappers were banned in workplaces throughout the United States and in the 1940s the baggy zoot suits favored by Black and Latino men caused riots in cities from coast to coast.
Even in today’s more informal world, dress codes still determine what we wear, when we wear it—and what our clothing means. People lose their jobs for wearing braided hair, long fingernails, large earrings, beards, and tattoos or refusing to wear a suit and tie or make-up and high heels. In some cities, wearing sagging pants is a crime. And even when there are no written rules, implicit dress codes still influence opportunities and social mobility. Silicon Valley CEOs wear t-shirts and flip flops, setting the tone for an entire industry: women wearing fashionable dresses or high heels face ridicule in the tech world and some venture capitalists refuse to invest in any company run by someone wearing a suit.
In Dress Codes, law professor and cultural critic Richard Thompson Ford presents an insightful and entertaining history of the laws of fashion from the middle ages to the present day, a walk down history’s red carpet to uncover and examine the canons, mores, and customs of clothing—rules that we often take for granted. After reading Dress Codes, you’ll never think of fashion as superficial again—and getting dressed will never be the same.

作者簡介

理查德·湯普森·福特(Richard Thompson Ford)是斯坦福大學法學院的教授。他曾為《紐約時報》、《華盛頓郵報》、《舊金山紀事報》和《石板》撰寫過有關法律、社會和文化問題以及種族關係的文章，也曾出現在《科爾伯特報告》(The Colbert Report)和《蕾切爾·瑪多秀》(The Rachel Maddow Show)上。他是《紐約時報》著名書籍《種族卡和權利錯了:法律如何腐蝕爭取平等的鬥爭》的作者。

Richard Thompson Ford is a Professor at Stanford Law School. He has written about law, social and cultural issues and race relations for The New York Times, The Washington Post, San Francisco Chronicle, and Slate, and has appeared on The Colbert Report and The Rachel Maddow Show. He is the author of the New York Times notable books The Race Card and Rights Gone Wrong: How Law Corrupts the Struggle for Equality.